Still, learning to surf isn’t just about improving your technique. From equipment to etiquette, there’s a lotta stuff to study. Learning from an experienced friend and/or mentor can definitely speed up the learning curve, so we asked our shreducated Sanuk ambassadors Lauren Hill, Hunter Jones, and Paige Alms to share some personal experiences and tips from their time in the lineup.

Is surfing dangerous?

Well, No, but also Yes. Being a good swimmer, for starters, is key for anyone learning how to surf. Common sense and respect will also prove paramount, just like anything in life. For example, walking isn’t inherently dangerous, either; but if you walk into traffic, or off a ledge, bad things can happen. So it pays to be careful. And we’ve come up with nine tips to help new surfers safely navigate the waves. 

1. Start with the Right Mindset 

When you’re learning, having the right mindset is huge. You need to know your limits, and you shouldn’t surf spots that are beyond your ability. You probably won’t be riding big waves immediately, and you probably shouldn’t. But that’s fine, you’ll feel the rush no matter what wave you’re riding.

Lauren Hill likes to begin each session with a few things in mind: “By taking a deep breath and being grateful for the crazy privilege of time, space, and access to play in a clean ocean. And always coming back to the fact that, more than anything else, surfing is meant to be FUN.”

2. Read the Waves and Conditions

This is the most important thing when learning how to surf. Be aware of the day’s tides, swell forecast, and weather before paddling out. Watch the waves for a bit when you get there, and make sure they aren’t too big. You’ll want to watch for at least 30 minutes to get a feel for how big the waves are. Don’t surf waves that are bigger than you can handle. As is said: If in doubt, don’t paddle out.

Hunter Jones, on his pre-paddle routine: “Before every session, I take a few minutes while I’m suiting up to observe the lineup. I like to see where the best waves are coming in, how many waves are in a set, and observe what the crowd is doing. Also, while in the water, after finding a portion of the beach I want to surf, I like to line up with something on the beach so I can constantly stay aligned with where the best waves are coming in.”

3. Be cautious of Rip Currents

Rip currents might look like a wave-less channel and an easy place to paddle out; but they can be strong, narrow, river-like currents flowing outward from the beach through the surf zone, presenting hazards. If you get caught in one, don’t panic or swim against the current. Instead, paddle perpendicular to the direction of the current (parallel to the beach). Once you’re out of the rip, you can safely paddle back to shore.

Paige Alms shares how she handles rip current situations: “If it looks fun, but you can see there is a strong rip, watch! You can learn a lot from watching other people and how the water is flowing. Also, don’t be afraid to ask your local lifeguards…they watch the ocean and lineups in all conditions, and they can be a very helpful resource. But, ultimately, if you’re by yourself and you don’t feel comfortable, don’t go out.”

4. Entering and Exiting the Ocean

When you paddle out, make sure you stay out of the way. If there’s a channel, or another area where waves aren’t breaking, follow that route and then join the lineup. If you have to paddle through the impact zone, it’s on you to make sure you’re not in the way of other surfers. If someone is riding down the line close to you, it’s your responsibility to stay behind them and out of the way—even if that means paddling into the whitewash. And the same rules apply when exiting the water. 

When asked if she had a certain technique when entering and exiting the ocean, Paige Alms offers a simple, but effective strategy; “Getting in the ocean should always put a smile on your face, so smile at someone in a lineup—it can help if it’s a new spot to you.”

5. Be Respectful and Aware of Marine Life

No matter where you surf, you’ll be sharing the ocean with all sorts of marine life. Those moments can be magical, though also dangerous. You’re in their happy space, so it’s on you to respect it. Don’t interact with them, when possible; but, if unavoidable, be sure to show respect, whether it’s a jellyfish, stingray, or sea lion.

“I’ve had quite a few memorable ones, from whales to turtles,” says Paige, “but last winter, my fiancé and I were going for a tow session at an outer reef on Maui. We came across a small pod of dolphins, so we shut off the ski and they circled us, fully interacting, and playing around the ski. We had recently lost our dog, and we felt as though one of the dolphins was her spirit coming to say Hi. It was pretty magical.”

6. Watch out for Rocks and Coral

Coral reefs and rocks can make for great waves. They also can be dangerous if you’re not paying attention. If the reef or rocks are shallow, be extra careful when you wipe out, and avoid plunging feet-first into the water. And know they can both easily cut your feet while walking in/out or jumping off the bottom.

“I was recently in Salina Cruz, Mexico,” remembers Hunter. “The waves were pumping, 6-8ft+ tubes, and there was one particular rock that sticks out where the tube gets the most hollow. I talked with one of the locals in the water, and the advice he gave me was, “Don’t stall for the tube. Just keep pumping or you’ll get slammed into the rocks.” Lucky enough on my first wave, I dropped into a set got a small tube on the first section and saw the wave doubling up on the inside, so I just started pumping. I rode inside the second section until I got clamped and wiped out. I arose to the surface to find my leash was wrapped around a massive boulder on the inside, and there were sets approaching. My board was on one side of the rock and my body was on the other, and the waves started pulling me back out to sea—making the tension around my leash and the rock stronger and stronger. I had no choice, but to take my leash off, ditch my board, and take the next five set waves on the head. After swimming under the first wave, I looked back to see my board was in two pieces. I didn’t have another board with me, so I just sat and watched spitting tubes rifle down the point for the next couple of hours. Lesson learned.”

7. Safe Wipeouts

Everyone wipes out. Even the best surfers in the world. It’s all part of the sport. The most important thing is knowing how to fall and recover safely. Fall away from your board, and don’t dive into the water head- or feet-first. If you fall in a critical section, wrap your arms around your head until you surface. (Surf helmets, these days, are a good choice to protect your head, too.) And be sure to watch out for boards above you when you come up for breath.

Hunter explains, “When surfing in barreling conditions, I tend to always cover my head with my arms after a wipeout. These types of waves produce a lot more force, and your board can whip back and hurt you very easily. I try to always come up to the surface with my hand pointed toward the sky, so I don’t hit my board or my fins when coming up for air.”

8. Manage Your Board and Your Leash

Managing your board and leash is a key piece of safety and general surfing etiquette. Your leash can keep your board near you and give you something to swim toward if you wipe out, but it’s not a safety valve. And, even with a leash, never let go of your board if there’s people around you, even if a wave is about to hit you. You don’t want it to go flying and hit someone. 

Paige has some valuable advice: “Be mindful that your leash is just a safety system to keep your board attached to you, but you can’t rely on it. They do break. You should never go out somewhere you wouldn’t feel comfortable swimming in from.”

9. Surfing Etiquette: Know the Rules of Surfing 

• Respect others 
• Never drop in on someone else
• Know the right of way
• Respect the beach
• Communicate
• Paddle out safely and know the lineup

Surfing safety and etiquette comes down to one thing: respect. You’ve got to respect the ocean, other surfers, and marine life you’re sharing the ocean with. Most importantly, respect your ability and limits. Do that, and you could enjoy the beauty of riding waves forever.